Shanghai Yu Garden Guide: History, Rockeries & Jade Exquisite

Introduction: An Oasis in the Metropolis

Amid Shanghai's busy Huangpu District, Yu Garden stands, a 400-year-old haven that preserves the elegance and calm of the Ming Dynasty.

Yu Garden was built between 1559 and 1577 as Pan Yunduan's private estate, meant as a peaceful retreat for his parents. Despite cycles of destruction and restoration, it remains Shanghai's most celebrated classical garden.

The Sansui Hall: A Grand Welcome

Visitors typically begin their journey at the Sansui Hall (Three Ears of Corn Hall). As the main structure of the garden, this hall historically served as a venue for hosting guests and holding grand ceremonies.

Upon entering, visitors look upward. The architecture features high beams and intricate carvings that display the grandeur of the Ming style. Originally, this space focused on the theme of "harvest" and "good fortune." In the Qing Dynasty, it evolved into a gathering place for literati and officials. The hall faces the garden's first major landscape feature, setting the stage for the visual unfolding of the "mountain and forest" aesthetic within a city.

The Great Rockery: A Man-Made Mountain

Directly facing the Sansui Hall stands the Great Rockery (Da Jia Shan). Designed by the renowned Ming garden artist Zhang Nanyang, this is not a random pile of stones but a carefully calculated architectural feat.

Using thousands of tons of yellow stone (Huangshi), the artist created a miniature mountain range complete with peaks, cliffs, winding paths, and gorges. Standing at 14 meters high, it was once the highest vantage point in the old city of Shanghai. Climbers of the winding stone steps will notice how the path twists and turns (a technique called "path winding through peaks") to make the space feel much larger than it actually is. The view from the top offers a commanding perspective of the garden’s intricate layout.

The Yule Pavilion and the Philosophy of "Borrowed Scenery"

One of the most intellectually stimulating spots in the garden is the Yule Pavilion (Fish Joy Pavilion). This area perfectly demonstrates the four essential elements of a Chinese garden: stone, wood, water, and structures.

At the Yule Pavilion, pay attention to the "flower wall" with its moon gate and lattice windows by the water. As you walk through, use the windows to catch glimpses of the stream. Notice how the designer uses "Borrowed Scenery" to create the illusion of a distant water source. Take your time to observe how each element is positioned for the best effect.

The pavilion's name references a famous philosophical debate from the Warring States period between Zhuangzi and Huizi.

• The Story: Standing on a bridge, Zhuangzi remarked, "See how the minnows dart around freely? That is the happiness of the fish." Huizi challenged him, "You are not a fish; how do you know the fish are happy?" Zhuangzi retorted, "You are not me; how do you know I don't know the fish are happy?" This spot invites you to pause and reflect on your own perspective of the world, just as the ancient scholars did.

Wanhua Chamber and the Hermit’s Tale

Continuing through the garden, visitors arrive at the Wanhua Chamber (Chamber of Ten Thousand Flowers). This exquisite building is surrounded by lush flora. Depending on the season, magnolias may bloom in spring, lotuses in summer, or ginkgo in autumn.

Careful attention to the intricate carvings on the doors and windows reveals a depiction of a man with a plum tree and a crane. This references the legend of Lin Hejing, a Song Dynasty poet who refused to serve the government. He retreated to West Lake in Hangzhou, where he lived in solitude, planting plum trees and raising cranes. He famously claimed the "plum blossom was his wife and the crane his son" (Mei Qi He Zi). This carving symbolizes the high moral character and the desire for a secluded, peaceful life—a sentiment shared by the garden's original owner.

Dianchun Hall: The Revolutionary Headquarters

While much of the garden is about peace, Dianchun Hall (Hall of Heralding Spring) tells a story of rebellion. In 1853, the Small Sword Society (Xiaodaohui), a rebel group responding to the Taiping Rebellion, seized Shanghai.

While visiting Dianchun Hall, take some time inside to view the historical artifacts, weapons, and maps on display. These exhibits help you better understand the 1853 Small Sword Society rebellion and its impact on the garden.

The Jade Exquisite: A Stone Masterpiece

Before you leave, be sure to seek out the Jade Exquisite (Yu Ling Long), one of the garden’s iconic rocks. It is located near the central area and is a must-see for all visitors.

This 3-meter-tall, 3-ton boulder is a prime example of the Taihu stone aesthetic. Connoisseurs judge these stones by four criteria:

1. Zhou (Wrinkled): A textured, rugged surface.
2. Lou (Leaking): Holes that allow water or debris to pass through.
3. Shou (Slender): A slim, upright shape.
4. The boulder is celebrated for its wrinkled, perforated, slender, and transparent features. Legend holds that incense smoke or water moves uniquely through its holes.

The Dragon Walls and Water Corridors

As visitors navigate between these sites, they walk through the Jiyu Water Corridor. Stretching over 100 meters, it is the longest water corridor in any classical Jiangnan garden. It connects the scenery, allowing one to walk "on" the water, surrounded by ancient trees and red carp.

Finally, the iconic Dragon Walls that divide the garden sections are a must-see. Unlike imperial dragons, these garden dragons were built by commoners (albeit wealthy ones). To avoid offending the Emperor, the dragon heads were crafted from clay and the bodies from roof tiles. The Crossing Cloud Dragon and the Double Dragons Playing with a Pearl are visually striking, appearing to slither along the top of the white walls, guarding the tranquility within.

Conclusion

As you conclude your visit, remember that Yu Garden invites you to find tranquility and inspiration among its halls, rockeries, and pavilions. Take a moment to reflect on old China’s refined lifestyle as you exit through the main gate, bringing the garden’s peace with you.