Ultimate Guide to the Old Summer Palace (Yuanmingyuan): Ruins & History

Introduction

In the northwest suburbs of Beijing, there is a beautiful yet sad place. People call it the Old Summer Palace (Yuanmingyuan). This location is near the Summer Palace and Tsinghua University. Once known as the "Garden of Gardens," it represents the pinnacle of Chinese imperial landscape design.

Built in 1707 during Emperor Kangxi's reign, this large complex covered over 350 hectares. That's about the size of five Forbidden Cities.

For more than 150 years, Qing Dynasty emperors grew this masterpiece. They mixed the impressive style of northern buildings. They added the beauty of southern gardens.

They also included the special features of European baroque design. However, in 1860, the Anglo-French forces looted and burned the complex, leaving behind the haunting ruins we see today.

Visiting Yuanmingyuan is not just a sightseeing trip; it is a walk through history, offering a glimpse into a lost era of opulence and a poignant lesson on the fragility of heritage.

Understanding the Layout: The Three Gardens

To navigate this massive site efficiently, you must understand its structure. The complex is not just one park. It consists of three gardens that are close to each other.

1. Yuanmingyuan (Garden of Perfect Brightness)

2. Changchunyuan (Garden of Eternal Spring)

3. Qichunyuan (Garden of Elegant Spring)

Although originally independent, these gardens are connected by a vast network of waterways. Water covers nearly 40% of the total area, acting as the soul of the landscape. The designers made hills, lakes, and small islands from flat land. They wanted to copy the beauty of Southern China, like West Lake in Hangzhou.

While 98% of the park has Chinese-style landscapes, most visitors go to the other 2%. This part features the stone ruins of the European section.

Step 1: Qichunyuan – The Entrance and Introduction

Most visitors begin their journey at the South Gate, entering into Qichunyuan. Historically, this area served as the primary entrance for emperors and empresses through the Grand Palace Gate (Dagongmen). While the magnificent gate fell, the layout remains.

As you walk through Qichunyuan, you will notice the layout features small, secluded gardens linked by streams. During the reign of Emperor Jiaqing, officials significantly expanded this area by merging smaller princely gardens.

Today, it serves as a serene introduction to the park. If you visit in summer, you will find that this area features large lotus ponds. The pink flowers stand out against the green willows.

Step 2: Yuanmingyuan – The Imperial Core

Continuing northward, you enter the main garden, Yuanmingyuan. This was the administrative and residential heart of the complex.

• Jiuzhou Qingyan (Nine Continents Clear and Calm): This is the largest island cluster in the park. It consists of nine islets connected by bridges, symbolizing the "Nine Continents" of the empire. From a bird’s-eye view, the layout resembles a tortoise, a symbol of longevity and stability. This area served as the emperor's private living quarters.

• Fuhai (Sea of Happiness): Moving east, you will encounter a vast open body of water known as Fuhai. This lake is the recreational center of the park, comparable in size to the Beihai Park lake.

In the center of Fuhai lie three islands known as Pengdao Yaotai. These were built to represent the three mythical immortal mountains described in Taoist legends. Emperors would boat here to seek solace and pray for longevity. The reflection of these islands on the clear water looks like a mirage. European visitors once called it a fairy land rising from the lake.

Step 3: Changchunyuan & The Western Mansions

The highlight for most international travelers is the Western Mansions (Xiyang Lou) area in Changchunyuan. Note: You must purchase the "Through Ticket" (25 RMB) to enter this specific zone. This section is special because it has European-style stone buildings. Jesuit missionaries, like Giuseppe Castiglione, designed them, but they were built using Chinese methods.

Because they were made of stone, these structures survived the fire better than the wooden halls, leaving behind the iconic ruins.

• Xiequ Yuan (Harmonious Interest): This was the first European-style building constructed in the garden. Originally, it housed a western music hall and a fountain with bronze animal statues.

• Wanhua Zhen (The Maze): Also known as the "Yellow Flower Array," this is a European-style labyrinth built with brick walls. During the Mid-Autumn Festival, the emperor sat in the central pavilion.

His concubines held yellow lotus lanterns and raced through the maze. The first to reach the center received a reward. This is one of the few structures that has been restored, allowing you to walk the maze yourself.

• Haiyantang (Hall of National Peace): This was the largest structure in the Western section. Its most famous feature was the 12 Zodiac Water Clock fountain.

Bronze statues of the 12 Chinese zodiac animals were arranged in a "V" shape. Every two hours, the animal for that time would spray water. At noon, all twelve would spray at the same time.

While someone looted the original bronze heads (some have since returned), the stone scallop-shell niche remains a stunning sight.

• Dashuifa (Grand Waterworks): Just north of Haiyantang stands the Dashuifa, the most spectacular fountain complex. In its prime, it featured a lion head spraying water into seven layers of cascades, flanked by two 13-story water towers. People said the sound of the fountains was as deafening as a mountain torrent. Today, the broken marble columns and arches are the most photographed landmark in Beijing.

Step 4: The Panorama Model Exhibition

Before leaving the Western Mansions area, maximize your understanding by visiting the Panorama Model Exhibition. Since much of the park is now ruins, it can be difficult to visualize its former glory.

This exhibition features a detailed model and images that contrast the current ruins with paintings of the original structures. It gives important context. It shows that the Western Mansions were only the "tip of the iceberg" of this large imperial complex.

Conclusion

The Old Summer Palace is full of contradictions. It is very beautiful but also sadly destroyed. It mixes Eastern and Western styles. It was once a royal playground, but now it is a ruin.

As the French writer Victor Hugo once said, it was a "wonder of the world," a museum of the East that rivaled the Parthenon. A visit here is a contemplative experience. As you walk by the quiet stones of the Western Mansions, you feel a connection to history. If you float on a boat in the Sea of Happiness, you experience this moment even more.