Introduction

When you visit Beijing, the Summer Palace (Yiheyuan) is an absolute must-see destination. As the largest and most well-preserved royal park in China, it offers a glimpse into the opulent lifestyle of the Qing Dynasty emperors. However, the sheer size of the grounds—roughly equivalent to four Forbidden Cities—can be overwhelming. Attempting to explore every corner in a single day is a task for the weary; for the savvy traveler, the key is to follow a smart route that covers the highlights without exhausting your energy.

Originally named "Qingyi Garden," this masterpiece was constructed by Emperor Qianlong, who was inspired by the landscapes of Southern China. He ordered the excavation of Kunming Lake and used the displaced earth to create Longevity Hill, forming the backbone of the garden we see today. To help you navigate this massive complex efficiently, we have curated a "nanny-level" route that ensures you see the best spots without retracing your steps.

Step 1: Enter Through the East Palace Gate

Start your journey at the East Palace Gate (Dongmen). This is the main entrance and the best place to immediately feel the grandeur of royal architecture. As you stand beneath the historical plaque, take a moment to appreciate the intricate design that signifies imperial power.

Once inside, proceed directly to the Hall of Benevolence and Longevity (Renshou Hall). This was the political heart of the Summer Palace, where Empress Dowager Cixi and Emperor Guangxu handled state affairs and received foreign envoys.

In the courtyard, you will notice a striking pair of bronze sculptures: a dragon and a phoenix. Observe their positioning closely. Unlike traditional arrangements where the dragon dominates, here the bronze phoenix stands tall and proud in the center, while the dragon appears to cower on the side. This unique layout symbolizes the supreme power Cixi held over the emperor during her reign.

Step 2: The Living Quarters and Royal Secrets

Next, move to the Hall of Jade Billows (Yulan Hall). While it looks like a peaceful residence, it holds a darker history as the "Emperor’s Prison."

After the failure of the Hundred Days' Reform, Empress Dowager Cixi imprisoned her nephew, Emperor Guangxu, within these walls to prevent him from escaping or regaining power. She went so far as to brick up the side passages, leaving only a single guarded exit. Standing here offers a chilling insight into the ruthless power struggles of the late Qing Dynasty.

Continue your walk to the Hall of Joyful Longevity (Leshou Hall), Cixi’s personal residence. This area showcases the Empress’s extravagant lifestyle. Inside, you might notice large containers; these were not for heating, but for holding fresh fruits. Cixi preferred the natural scent of fruit over incense, reportedly consuming over 150,000 apples annually just for their fragrance.

In the courtyard of Leshou Hall, look for the bronze deer, crane, and vase, which together symbolize "universal peace." However, there is one object you should strictly admire from a distance: the massive rock known as the Blue Iris Stone (Bajiashi).

Legend calls it the "Spendthrift Stone" or the "Stone of Bankruptcy." Folklore suggests that previous owners faced financial ruin, and it is considered bad luck to take photos with it. It is best to simply observe it as part of the garden's history.

Step 3: The Long Corridor and Tower of Buddhist Incense

Leaving the residential area, head west through the Yao Gate to reach the famous Long Corridor. Stretching over 700 meters, this architectural marvel holds a Guinness World Record as the longest covered wooden corridor in the world. It functions as an art gallery, featuring over 14,000 paintings depicting landscapes, folk tales, and scenes from classical literature. As you stroll, look up to see if you can recognize stories from the "Four Great Classical Novels" of China.

The corridor is punctuated by four octagonal pavilions representing the four seasons. From the center of the corridor, look upwards to see the Tower of Buddhist Incense (Foxiang Pavilion) standing majestically on Longevity Hill.

This is the symbol of the Summer Palace. If you have the energy, you can purchase a separate ticket to climb the tower for a panoramic view of Kunming Lake. However, be warned that the climb is steep and can be physically demanding. If you prefer a more relaxed tour, admiring it from below is equally impressive.

Step 4: Hidden Gems and the Marble Boat

Continue west past the "Autumn Water Pavilion" and follow the path slightly uphill to reach a hidden gem: Huazhongyou (Strolling Through a Picture).

This complex of pavilions and walkways was reportedly built based on a dream Emperor Qianlong had. It offers stunning, elevated views of the lake and is often less crowded than the main paths. The architectural colors here are vibrant, making it an excellent spot for photography. However, the terrain is uneven with complex rock formations, so please watch your step.

Descend from the hill and proceed west to the Marble Boat (Qingyan Boat). Built by Emperor Qianlong and later restored by Cixi, this massive stone structure symbolizes the stability of the Qing Dynasty—based on the proverb that while water can overturn a wooden boat, it cannot overturn a stone one. It served as a lavish tea house for the Empress to enjoy the lake scenery.

Step 5: Cruising Kunming Lake

At this point, your legs might be feeling the distance. Instead of walking back, head to the dock near the Marble Boat and purchase a ferry ticket (approximately 40 RMB). This is a highly recommended investment. The boat ride allows you to relax, enjoy the breeze, and view the Summer Palace from the water—a perspective that makes many visitors lament the fall of the empire that built such beauty.

The boat will drop you off near Nanhu Island and the Seventeen Arch Bridge. This iconic bridge connects the island to the mainland. While photographers often flock here in winter to catch the "Golden Light Piercing the Arch" phenomenon (which only occurs around the Winter Solstice at 4:00 PM), the bridge is a masterpiece of engineering and aesthetics year-round.

Conclusion

After exploring the island and the bridge, you can exit through the New Palace Gate (Xinjian Gate) nearby. On your way out, if time permits, you can visit the Summer Palace Museum to see historical photographs of Empress Dowager Cixi.

This one-way route from the East Gate to the New Palace Gate ensures you see the most significant sites without unnecessary backtracking. By following this guide, you not only save energy but also gain a deeper understanding of the stories hidden behind the red walls and green tiles.