Prince Kung's Mansion Guide: History, Highlights & "Fu" Stele

Introduction

Located on the scenic western bank of Shichahai on Liuyin Street, Prince Kung’s Mansion (Gong Wang Fu) is not merely a tourist attraction; it is a time capsule of China's last imperial dynasty. As the largest and best-preserved princely estate in Beijing, it carries a weight of history summarized by the famous local saying: "One Prince Kung's Mansion, half the history of the Qing Dynasty."

Covering an impressive 60,000 square meters, this compound offers a rare glimpse into the extravagant lifestyle of the Qing elite. Unlike the Forbidden City, which represents the supreme authority of the Emperor, Prince Kung's Mansion showcases the height of aristocratic luxury and architectural elegance. Whether you are a history buff or an architecture enthusiast, this guide will walk you through the stories of power, corruption, and survival hidden within these high walls.

The History: From Corruption to Royalty

Before you explore the grounds, it is essential to understand who lived here. The mansion was originally built around 1776 by Heshen, a Grand Secretary during the Qianlong Emperor's reign. Heshen is infamous in Chinese history as the most corrupt official of the Qing Dynasty. The sheer luxury of this estate was one of the crimes that eventually led to his downfall and execution.

In 1851, the mansion was granted to Yixin, the sixth son of the Emperor, known as Prince Kung (Gong Qinwang). Yixin was a pivotal figure in late Qing politics, and it was under his ownership that the estate underwent significant renovations to achieve the layout we see today. Interestingly, the mansion also served a turbulent role in the 20th century, functioning as a campus for Fu Jen Catholic University, a library, and even a women's dormitory, before finally being restored as a museum.

Part 1: The Imperial Residence (The Front Section)

The complex is strictly divided into two parts: the formal Residence in the south and the Garden in the north. Your journey begins at the Main Gate, flanked by stone lions, signaling the high status of its occupants.

As you navigate the residential area, pay close attention to the Hall of Multi-Happiness (Duofuxuan) and the Hall of Joyful Way (Ledao Hall) located in the East Route. These halls served as the living quarters for Prince Kung and his family. While admiring the architecture, look up at the beams and ceilings. You will spot the exquisite "Phoenix and Hexi" paintings. In imperial hierarchy, the dragon represents the emperor and the phoenix often represents the empress or high-ranking women. The presence of these prestigious phoenix motifs confirms that a princess—specifically Emperor Qianlong’s favorite daughter, Princess Hexiao (who married Heshen’s son)—once resided here.

At the far rear of the residential section stands the Back Building (Houzhaolou). Spanning over 160 meters, this two-story structure is one of the longest buildings of its kind in China. Historically, this building served as a massive treasury where Heshen allegedly stored his illicitly gained wealth. During the Fu Jen University era, this historic structure was converted into a dormitory for female students.

Part 2: The Garden of Green Gems (The Back Section)

After passing through the residence, you will enter the garden, often cited as a masterpiece of northern Chinese landscape design. It covers roughly 28,000 square meters and is designed to rival the imperial gardens of the Forbidden City.

The Western Gate (Xiyangmen) Your entrance to the garden is marked by a striking architectural feature: the Western Gate. Built from white marble, this arched gate mimics the European baroque style found in the Old Summer Palace (Yuanmingyuan). Since the original European-style gates at the Old Summer Palace were destroyed in 1860, this gate at Prince Kung's Mansion remains the only pristine example of this architectural fusion from that era. It is considered one of the "Three Unique Treasures" of the mansion.

The "Fu" Stele and Dicuiyan Rockery The spiritual center of the garden is the Dicuiyan (Dripping Verdure Rock). This artificial hill is constructed from Taihu rocks and serves as the highest point in the garden. Visitors often notice large earthen jars placed on top of the rockery. These were historically filled with water to keep the rocks moist, allowing moss to grow and giving the hill its verdant green appearance.

Hidden within a cave inside this rockery lies the mansion's most prized possession: the Fu (Happiness) Stele. This stone tablet bears the calligraphy of Emperor Kangxi. Unlike modern "Fu" characters, Kangxi’s calligraphy is unique because the stroke structure implies multiple meanings: "many children," "many talents," "much land," and "long life." It is widely revered as the "Number One Happiness under Heaven." Touching the railing or being near the stele is said to bring good fortune, making it a must-visit spot.

The Pavilion of Flowing Cups (Qingqiu Pavilion) As you wander the paths, you will encounter the Qingqiu Pavilion. Look closely at the floor of this pavilion; there is a winding stone channel cut into the ground. From East to West, the channel resembles the Chinese character for "Water," and from North to South, it looks like "Longevity."

This pavilion was used for an ancient drinking game called "Liushang Qushui." Servants would float cups of wine down the water channel. Guests sat around the stream, and if the cup stopped in front of you, you had to compose a poem or drink the wine. It reflects the sophisticated cultural life of the Qing aristocracy.

The Grand Theater House Finally, ensure you visit the Grand Theater House on the eastern side of the garden. Unlike open-air stages, this is a fully enclosed theater. The architectural genius lies in its acoustics; the ceiling and walls were designed to amplify sound naturally, allowing actors to be heard clearly from any corner without microphones. This theater is the only one of its kind from the Qing Dynasty that remains fully intact and open to the public.

Conclusion

Prince Kung's Mansion is more than just a collection of buildings; it is a narrative of China's past. From the "Phoenix" beams of the princess's quarters to the European-style gate echoing a lost era, every corner holds a story. Walking through these grounds allows you to touch the history of a dynasty that rose to glory and eventually faded away, leaving behind this magnificent estate for us to explore.