The Ultimate Guide to Lijiang Old Town

Introduction: A History Written in Water and Stone

Lijiang Old Town (Dayan Ancient Town) is not merely a scenic spot; it is a living history book and a UNESCO World Heritage site that breathes with the spirit of the Naxi people. Located in the northwest of Yunnan Province, this ancient city defies the traditional Chinese city planning of "square walls and rigid grids." Instead, it is a masterpiece of free-flowing architecture, where water dictates the layout and mountains provide the protection.

"One ancient city, one history, a system of water and spiritual energy." This is the essence of Lijiang. Unlike other walled cities, Lijiang has no city walls. This unique feature stems from the hereditary rulers of the region, the Mu family. Legend holds that if the character for "Mu" (木 - the ruler's surname) were surrounded by a wall (口 - a box), it would form the character for "Kun" (困), meaning "trapped" or "besieged." Thus, the city remains open, protected only by the natural barrier of the surrounding mountains.

Visiting Lijiang is an immersion into the "Slow Life." Whether you are tracing the footsteps of the Tea Horse Road caravans or deciphering the mysterious Dongba hieroglyphs, this guide will navigate you through the winding alleys of this highland gem.

The Southern Entry: Dragons and Sacred Wells

While many enter from the North, a more authentic journey begins at the South Gate via Bailong Square (White Dragon Square). Built in 2008, this plaza serves as the southern gateway. Upon entering, your first stop is the White Horse Dragon Pool Temple (Baima Longtan Si).

This temple is the spiritual anchor of the southern district. It honors the Dragon King, reflecting the local reverence for water and weather. Inside, you will find the "Three Halls." The lower hall honors the Dragon King, often depicted with a pearl in his mouth, symbolizing the prayer for favorable wind and rain. As you ascend, you reach the "Great Light Hall," which uniquely houses figures from Tibetan Buddhism, showcasing the religious syncretism of the region.

Just outside the temple lies the famous Three-Eye Well system, a testament to the scientific wisdom of the ancient Naxi people. The water flows through three distinct pools:

1. The First Pool: Reserved strictly for drinking water.

2. The Second Pool: Used for washing vegetables and food.

3. The Third Pool: Designated for washing clothes. This cascading system ensures that clean water is utilized efficiently and hygienically, a practice that remains in use today.

The Heart of Power: Mufu (Mu’s Residence)

Navigating from the wells, follow the map to the most significant architectural complex in the city: Mufu (Mu’s Residence). This palatial compound documents the rise and fall of the Tusi (chieftain) family who ruled Lijiang for centuries. It is often called the "Forbidden City of the Southwest."

Walking through Mufu offers a glimpse into the grandeur of a borderland empire. The architecture blends the structural styles of the central plains (Ming Dynasty style) with the intricate details of the Bai and Naxi ethnic groups. Passing through the complex, you will reach the Sanqing Hall at the highest point. From here, you gain a panoramic view of the city's tiled roofs stretching endlessly toward the mountains—a view that confirms why no city walls were ever needed.

Exiting the residence, you pass the "Tian Yu Liu Fang" Archway (meaning "The fragrance of literature spreads like rain from the sky"). Built during the Ming Dynasty, this structure represents the local embrace of education and Central Plains culture. Nearby stands the Guan Men Kou (Official Doorway), the only structure in the city resembling a traditional city gate, serving as the historical checkpoint for entering the Mu family's domain.

The Urban Core: Sifang Street and Ancient Bridges

Continuing your walk, you arrive at the city's beating heart: Sifang Street (Square Street). Historically, this was a critical hub on the Ancient Tea Horse Road and a bustling center for logistics and trade. The name "Sifang" implies "reaching out to all four directions," symbolizing its role as a transport nexus.

The ground beneath your feet here is special. It is paved with Wuhua Stone (Five-Flower Stone). Though it looks smooth like concrete, it is actually natural stone quarried from nearby mountains. These stones are colorful and become lustrous over centuries of foot traffic, adding a "heavy oil painting" aesthetic to the streets.

Adjacent to the square is the Kegongfang (Imperial Examination Archway). This three-story structure (originally two) celebrates the academic success of Lijiang. In a region considered remote by ancient standards, Lijiang miraculously produced over 60 scholars and several high-ranking officials, a feat commemorated by this grand archway.

As you wander the alleys, you will cross numerous bridges. Lijiang is a city of bridges, ranging from stone arches to wooden planks. The Wanzi Bridge (Ten Thousand Children Bridge) is a highlight, traditionally visited by locals praying for offspring.

The Cultural Heights: Wenchang Palace

For a quieter experience and a superior vantage point, head toward Wenchang Palace. The entrance exudes antiquity, and the complex represents a "Three Religions in One" harmony, blending Confucianism, Taoism, and Buddhism.

Inside the courtyard stands a magnificent ancient cypress tree, estimated to be over 520 years old. Its roots are twisted and deep, symbolizing the city's endurance. Because Wenchang Palace sits on elevated ground, its viewing platform offers one of the best angles for photography, allowing you to capture the sweeping curves of the Naxi rooftops against the backdrop of the sky.

The Iconic North: The Big Water Wheel

Your journey concludes at the northern end of the city, the most photographed landmark: The Big Water Wheel. Standing next to the large screen wall bearing the calligraphy of former President Jiang Zemin ("World Cultural Heritage Lijiang Old Town"), these two massive wooden wheels turn slowly in the river.

Historically, these wheels were functional agricultural tools used for irrigation and grinding flour. Today, the sound of the water splashing off the wooden paddles—described as "pearls falling onto a jade plate"—provides a soothing soundtrack to the bustling entrance plaza.

Nearby is Maicao Chang (Selling Straw Square), also known as "Little Sifang Street." In the era of caravans, this was the designated market for trading horse fodder. Though smaller than the main square, it retains a cozy, historical charm.

Unique Architecture: The Christian Church

For a deviation from traditional Chinese architecture, seek out the Christian Church near Wang Jiazhuang. Designed by a British architect in 1905, it operated until 1958 and reopened in 2006. Its presence highlights Lijiang's history as a melting pot where diverse cultures and religions coexisted peacefully.

Conclusion

Lijiang Old Town differs significantly from its neighbor, Dali. Where Dali is regimented and square, Lijiang is intricate and graceful, like a "jasper" hidden in the mountains. Its winding lanes, succulent-filled courtyards, and red lanterns create a romantic, maze-like atmosphere. To walk these streets is to step out of time, entering a world where water leads the way and history is etched into every stone.