A Comprehensive Guide to the Li River

Introduction: The Soul of Guilin

If the landscape of Guilin is the finest under heaven, the Li River is its undisputed soul. While the river stretches 83 kilometers, the essence of its beauty—the dramatic karst peaks, the emerald waters, and the pastoral poetry—is concentrated in the section near Xingping Ancient Town. This guide focuses on the "golden corridor" of the Li River, specifically the imagery immortalized on the 20 Yuan banknote and the panoramic heights of Xianggong Mountain.

Local photographers and guides often debate the best weather for visiting. While sunny days bring vibrant colors and joy to tourists, the true "Li River charm" often emerges during misty rain. As the clouds shroud the karst peaks in a veil of white and the water turns a deep, reflective green, the landscape transforms into a traditional Chinese ink wash painting. Whether you are chasing the dramatic sunrise atop a mountain or watching a cormorant fisherman light his gas lamp at dusk, this guide will navigate you through the most photogenic and culturally rich segments of the Li River.

The Heart of the River: Xingping and the Yellow Cloth Shoal

Your journey should center around Xingping, a historic town that serves as the gateway to the river's most iconic views. Unlike the bustling city center of Guilin, Xingping offers a direct connection to the water and the mountains.

The Yellow Cloth Shoal (Huangbu Reflection) The crown jewel of the Li River is the Yellow Cloth Shoal (Huangbu Dao Ying). Locals and photographers alike consider this the "cream of the crop" of Li River scenery. Located just a short distance from Xingping, this section of the river is renowned for its tranquil waters. The surface here is so still that it acts as a flawless mirror, reflecting the seven peaks that stand guard over the water.

This location is famous for being the background image of the 20 Yuan RMB banknote. When you stand here, you are stepping into a national symbol. The visual experience is defined by the interplay of the verdant peaks and their inverted reflections in the water. To truly appreciate this, one must look for the "Yellow Cloth," a large, flat, yellow flagstone lying under the water's surface, which gives the shoal its name.

The Cormorant Fishermen A highlight of the Xingping riverside is the presence of traditional cormorant fishermen. These elderly figures, often dressed in traditional straw rain capes (coir raincoats) and bamboo hats, represent a living history of the river. While commercial fishing has modernized, these fishermen now serve as cultural ambassadors and models for photographers.

The most famous among them are iconic figures with white beards who have appeared in countless international magazines and travel blogs. They operate bamboo rafts, often accompanied by their faithful cormorant birds and vintage gas lamps. The best time to observe this scene is at dusk or dawn. As the fisherman lights the gas lamp on the bow of the raft, the warm glow illuminates his weathered face and the sleek feathers of the birds, creating a nostalgic atmosphere that transports you back in centuries.

The Panorama: Xianggong Mountain

For a perspective that completely changes your understanding of the Li River's geography, you must visit Xianggong Mountain (Xianggong Shan). While being on the water immerses you in the mountains, standing atop Xianggong Mountain allows you to dominate them.

The Ascent The climb to the viewing platform is manageable for most travelers. It is a well-paved staircase that typically takes about 15 to 20 minutes to ascend. Along the way, you might encounter local farmers selling fresh produce. The region is famous for its kumquats (golden oranges). These local fruits are celebrated for their high sugar content and juiciness, providing a sweet refreshment during your hike.

The View: The First Bend Upon reaching the summit, the view opens up to reveal the magnificent First Bend of the Li River. From this vantage point, the river does not just flow; it winds like a jade ribbon through a forest of limestone peaks. The visual impact is overwhelming. You can see countless peaks arranged in an orderly yet natural fashion, stretching endlessly toward the horizon.

This location is a favorite for photography enthusiasts chasing the "sea of clouds" and the sunrise. If you are lucky enough to visit after a rain shower or during high humidity, the clouds drift between the peaks, creating a dynamic, shifting landscape where mountains appear to float like islands in a white ocean. Even without the sea of clouds, the sheer scale of the river bending around the lush farmland and villages below is a sight that defines the Guilin experience.

Photography and Atmosphere

The visual experience of the Li River is heavily dictated by light and weather.

Misty Rain vs. Sunshine Do not be discouraged by bad weather. In fact, many professional photographers prefer overcast or rainy days. The local saying goes that the Li River is beautiful in the sun, but even more mysterious and enchanting in the rain. The mist separates the layers of mountains, adding depth and a painterly quality to the scenery.

The Blue Hour For the best shots of the cormorant fishermen, aim for the "blue hour"—the period just after sunset but before total darkness. The contrast between the cool blue of the twilight sky and the warm yellow of the fisherman’s gas lamp creates a striking artistic effect.

Conclusion

A trip to the Li River is more than just sightseeing; it is an immersion into a landscape that has defined Chinese aesthetics for a millennium. From the quiet reflections of the Yellow Cloth Shoal to the dramatic heights of Xianggong Mountain, the area around Xingping offers a concentrated dose of natural wonder. Whether you are savoring the sweet local kumquats on a mountain trail or watching a bamboo raft glide silently over the water, the Li River leaves an imprint of tranquility on the soul.